Month: October 2005

Exciting news…Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell free climbed the Nose, one of the hardest big wall routes in history! Tommy then free climbed the route in 12 hours two days later. Check it out: #@*%!climbing.com/news/thenosefree/ As most of you know, Lynn Hill was the first person to free the Nose in 1993. She returned in 1994 to climb it in a day, a feat so hard that has not been repeated until last week. If you are interested in an autographed copy of Lynn’s video, “Free-climbing the Nose” ($16) or her book, “Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World,” ($20) please e-mail me at [email protected]. All proceeds will go towards the National Transplant Assistance Fund for my medical expenses and will be tax-deductible. Stacey

Abby, it’s great to hear from you! Thank you for stopping by the site. I went to a TRIO (Transplant Recipients International Organization) meeting and there a woman spoke who had a heart/double lung transplant 18 years ago! She is doing quite well and is busy organizing events for the community. I have been very busy with classes and rehab. There are good days and bad days. On the good days, I am making gains and personal bests. I am up to 9′ 11″ in the long jump! On bad days, I am still getting sick in the mornings. Stacey, from Belmont

On Monday, I also attended a support group at Stanford Hospital for patients with LAM. People from all over California attended, since Stanford is one of the few LAM centers in the world. A nutritionist and pulmonologist spoke about strategies for reducing the growth of smooth muscle cells and reducing the amount of fluid build-up in the lungs by taking in certain nutrients and limiting grams of fat. It was encouraging that there is some research happening for LAM and the search for the cure goes on. Stacey, from Belmont

After the social activities all week, by Sunday I was exhausted. I was able to teach a private lesson, but then I went over to my aunt’s house with the intention of studying for my computer class for many hours. After studying just a little bit, I took a long nap instead. Monday, I talked to the Financial Aid Director at the College of San Mateo, and she helped me apply for the Board of Governor’s Fee Waiver, so my college classes are all free now! With this new price, I became very academically motivated and signed up for full-time classes this next quarter. Tuesday afternoon, I climbed with Rob and Marci, and even though I was tired it felt satisfying to work on some harder routes. With some cheating, I worked my way up a 5.10d and really enjoyed the bad holds. It is a good way to get a real workout. I also got on a 5.10b overhang, but by that time I was already tired and needed to rest a lot by hanging on the rope in-between the moves. This method of working your way up a route is called “hang-dogging.” In the 1980’s, there was a big debate over climbing style. The traditionalists regarded “hang-dogging” as cheating. For them, the only pure way to climb a route would be to complete it from the ground, not hang on the rope to rest or inspect holds. This issue caused major controversy within the climbing community. Eventually, hang-dogging became an acceptable way of practicing and climbing routes; a way of extending the possibilities of difficulty level and gymnastic style in the sport. Stacey, from Belmont

Felix, thanks for your birthday message. I look forward to seeing you when you get home from your road trip! Rebecca, it was great to see you at the skating party. Thank you for your gift and the beautiful card. Denise, I received your birthday gift the day before my birthday, and I also enjoyed the digital photo of Sophia’s card! Thank you so much, it was so cute. It has been a very social birthday week. Tuesday, I climbed with Rob and had him over for dinner with Dave and me. Wednesday, I climbed the stadium steps with Ana and also spent time with her over Chinese dinner. Thursday, I attended a support group, then went to Lawrence’s yoga class, and later Ami took me out to dinner with Jim, Levi and Lawrence to celebrate our birthdays. (It was Jim’s birthday on Thursday.) Friday, I awoke to a sweet phone call from Sophia, saying “Happy Birthday, Aunt Stacey!” Later, I went to the track with Will and practiced technique for long jump, and then was treated to dinner by Aunt Lorraine, Brenda, VJ, and Dave. Saturday, we had the big ice-skating party at Belmont Iceland. It was wonderful to see so many friends at once. About 25 people showed up throughout the afternoon, including many of the kids from the Planet Granite and Twisters climbing teams. They are all getting older and taller, and skated around in a pack of young teenagers. Most of the adults who came hadn’t skated in years, but they were good sports and got out on the ice anyway! Dave, the clever party host, ordered a chocolate cake decorated with a hill going over the number “40.” There were three climbers on the hill. One was near the top, to symbolize that at 38, I’m almost “over the hill.” The other two, Zoe and Maya, were near the bottom, because they turned only 8 years old (it was their birthday, too.) I really appreciated people showing up to help me celebrate yet another year. It has been a rough one, and a lot of people helped me get through the illness and transplant almost a year ago. I have a new life with these lungs, with more freedom and strength, and I have to value every day from now on. I am grateful for life, and those who have shown their love. Stacey, from Belmont